Oak Grove embroidery design

A central subject, frequently the
Assumption of the Virgin, is surrounded by
numerous devices disposed in a radiating
manner, so as to fall into position when the
cope is worn. The devices are chiefly double-
headed eagles, fleurs-de-lys, Tudor roses, and
others of a floral character ; they are usually
extended by a curious arrangement of radi-
ating lines, dotted with spangles, a feature
which adds considerably to the lightness and
gracefulness of the work, and helps to soften
the contrast between the gold embroidery
and the dark ground. Among these devices
are almost always placed a number of six-
winged seraphs, standing upon wheels
(evidently borrowed from the description of
Ezekiel's vision), and holding scrolls inscribed
usually with the legend DA GLORIAM
DEO.* Chasubles and altar-frontals gene-
rally have devices of the same type ; frequently
they bear evidence of having been made from
copes.

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Eagle and Roses tattoo embroidery

Eagle and Roses tattoo embroidery design

The Annunciation machine embroidery design

The jacket was given by William IV. to the Viscountess Falkland, wife of the tenth viscount. It is recorded to have belonged to Queen Elizabeth. A large coverlet and a pillow-cover (Plate 37) of " black work," also belonging to the Viscount Falkland, may perhaps date from a little earlier in the same century. Each has a running pattern of vine- stems, the large leaves being filled with tiny diaper patterns. An embroidery of a similar class has lately been acquired by the Victoria and Albert Museum (No. 252, 1902). The panels are shaped to form the parts of a tunic, which has never been made up (Plate 38). The pattern is almost entirely floral ; it consists of columbines, pansies, acorns, filberts, birds, butterflies, and insects. There is a tradition that this work was done by Mary, the daughter of Sir Henry Pierrepont and sister of the Earl of Kingston, who was married to Fulk Cartwright of Ossington in 1606.

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