Leopard embroidery

In another portrait at Hampton Court
(No. 349), attributed by some to the artist
Taddeo Zucchero, the queen wears a fancy-
dress, consisting of a long, loose robe, em-
broidered all over in colours, with stems of
roses, pansies and other flowers, and birds.
Her right hand rests on the head of a stag,
and in one of the lower corners of the picture
are some verses, conjectured to be of the
queen's own composition.

A portrait in the possession of the Mar-
quess of Salisbury at Hatfield House is
quainter still. The robe of the queen is
embroidered all over with human eyes and
ears, symbolical, no doubt, of the vigilance and
wisdom of the illustrious wearer.

There is in the Victoria and Albert
Museum (No. 173, 1869), a loose tunic with
long sleeves, dating from the reign of Eliza-
beth. It is of cream-white silk, with em-
broidery in silver-gilt and silver thread and
silks of various colours. The flowers (roses,
honeysuckle, lilies, and pansies) are enclosed
within scrolls arranged in formal compart-
ments. A tunic of similar form (No. 919,
1873) is in a less costly material, being of
linen ; the materials used for the embroidery
are the same as in the previous case.

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The jacket was given by William IV. to the Viscountess Falkland, wife of the tenth viscount. It is recorded to have belonged to Queen Elizabeth. A large coverlet and a pillow-cover (Plate 37) of " black work," also belonging to the Viscount Falkland, may perhaps date from a little earlier in the same century. Each has a running pattern of vine- stems, the large leaves being filled with tiny diaper patterns. An embroidery of a similar class has lately been acquired by the Victoria and Albert Museum (No. 252, 1902). The panels are shaped to form the parts of a tunic, which has never been made up (Plate 38). The pattern is almost entirely floral ; it consists of columbines, pansies, acorns, filberts, birds, butterflies, and insects. There is a tradition that this work was done by Mary, the daughter of Sir Henry Pierrepont and sister of the Earl of Kingston, who was married to Fulk Cartwright of Ossington in 1606.

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